Rubato HK Café: A Retro Revival in Boston's South Shore
Behind a neon sign and soft transparent curtain sits one of Bon Appetit's best new restaurants of 2023. Rubato is one of just two spots in Massachusetts to make it to the list.
I have reached an age where I began questioning the essence of everything, as I believe that philosophy will guide us toward enduring and sustainable outcomes. In addition to savoring delicious food and experiencing transformative services, when I visit a new restaurant, I find myself caring more about the roots and the story behind the sense rather than its appearance in any list.
Blending simplicity with elegance, the entrance welcomes curious diners. Photo Credit: Khiem Tran
Waking up on a September morning, the air thick from yesterday evening's heavy rain, I craved some comfort food. A couple of blocks from my place, I stumbled upon this gem, just two weeks after the release of Bon Appetit’s list. Rubato welcomed me. Inside, the aroma of fried chicken wafted through the air. At 11:30 am, the line was up to the door, and half the menu was sold out.
Bamboo steamers add an authentic touch to the Café. Photo Credit: Khiem Tran
Rubato sampan congee featuring savory rice porridge with peanuts, fish, and egg bred a good cry and stirred a wave of emotions within me. Transitioning into full fan girl mode, the café's design as a food stall, complete with dancing neon signs, brought back nostalgic scenes from the 90s Hong Kong TVB movies I adored as a child.
Chef Laurence Louie is the brain behind Rubato. From his early days working at Oleana in Cambridge, MA, to ascending to the position of head chef at Oklava in London, UK, Louie demonstrated an unwavering commitment to his career. In August 2022, Louie opened the cozy 1,000-square-foot green and yellow café, taking over the historic Contempo Bakery on Hancock Street, once run by his mom for 22 years. Talk about keeping it in the family, Rary Ratsifa, the backbone of it all is Louis's life partner. When they first crossed paths in China almost a decade ago, little did they foresee that their shared dreams would come true one day in Louie's hometown. Her expertise in marketing complemented their journey, bringing Rubato to life.
The excitement is real at Rubato! Louie takes their buns very seriously. From the delectable bolo baos filled with chicken, pork, or spam to the tender steamed bao buns, every option is absolutely delicious. Bolo baos, also known as pineapple buns, are a beloved Hong Kong specialty. Despite their name, they don't typically contain pineapple - the name actually refers to the distinctive topping. While classic steamed bao buns at Rubato are already amazing on their own, they reach new heights when topped with slices of cold butter and baked to a crispy golden brown, which gives this dish its clever name.
The food at Rubato is carefully cared for and crafted by the practices of grounded, confident individuals. Rubato may not have the best Cantonese food, nor dare to compare it with long-standing traditional restaurants in the area. My happiness just stemmed when every ounce of effort was poured into my cup of Yuanyang - the unique Hong Kong coffee milk tea. Sipping the best of both worlds feels worthwhile, much like the twinkles in my eyes when a Cantopop song is presented on the radio. Only when we see the hardship work behind each bite, do we learn how to respect food. Rubato stands as a living to tell the tale of those who savor every bite, adding a unique chapter to Boston's culinary scene.